River Trails in Northern Taiwan

River Trails

She sprinted past the tombs on her bicycle, fearful that some ghostly apparition might spring up and sweep us away to another world.  I raced around the bend in the river, just ahead of her, eager to put some distance behind us.  The tombs strung across the hillside looked down on us in vacant disregard.  Suddenly the scenery changed and we dropped down below a series of crisscrossing highways.

Diane and I were riding the Keelung River Trail in search of a route to Danshui, a thriving city on the northwestern coast of Taiwan.  Until recently sections of the trail remained unfinished.  Mr. Ma, now president of Tawain, pushed to have the circuit completed while in office as major of Taipei City.  The river trails provide quick access to many points in Taipei County and are a safe alternative to riding on the road, away from cars and traffic headaches.

Mr. Ma’s vision now stands complete.  The Keelung River Trail and the Danshui River Trail run uninterrupted, as if cutting Yangmingshan National Park off from the rest of the island.  Anyone eager to cross the northern tip of Taiwan on a bicycle will find a world of scenic opportunities here, all within a day’s ride away.

The route begins in the port city of Keelung.  Although the eastern side of Taiwan is mountainous, here the river stays flat and is easy to follow.  Once entering Xi Zhi, however, deciding which side of the river to stay on becomes a bit of a logistical nightmare.  After you’re ridden through this section a few times, you’ll know what I mean.  But, until then, just follow someone else and ask for directions whenever needed.

Once you’ve left Taipei County and entered the Taipei City limits, the river becomes less tedious to navigate.  You’ll see that sections of the trail are still under construction, mostly under bridges.  However, alternative routes and trailside maps are easy to find, leaving little chance of getting lost.  Also within the city limits, you’ll find plenty of places to stop and grab a bite to eat or stock up on bicycle accessories, if needed.  

The view from the top of the Dazhi Bridge is remarkable.  To the south of the river is Dajia Riverside Park.  Farther away, across Taipei, is the towering Taipei 101 building.  Dazhi Bridge is a good place to get on and off the trail, if you’ve had enough riding for the day and would like to return again sometime later.  If you don’t have a car, take the road to Yuanshan and throw your bicycle on the MRT.

The distinguished Dazhi Bridge marks the joining of the Danshui and Keelung River Trails.  Still, you’ll still be riding along side the Keelung River for a while longer.  West of the Dazhi Bridge, the trail grows narrower.  Here, also, the crowds get thicker.  Solitary vendors appear at stray intersections, offering bottles of water or small treats to eat.  It wasn’t until we came to the Guangdu Warf, by the Acuatic Birds Marshland, that we found a decent cup of coffee.  Next door to the coffee shop is a donut store and next to that is a bicycle shop.  Guangdu Temple is also an outstanding place to look into the past and admire tradition as it is still practiced today in Taiwan. 

The ride north of Guangdu Warf reveals a glimpse of the vast Danshui River, working its way northward toward the coastline.  Exits at Zhuwei allow you to access to a McDonalds or a KFC, if you’re really missing the calories.  Here you’ll encounter the Hongshulin Mangroves Marshland and birds will swoop down over your head in a race to the finish line.  Hongshulin is also a great place to throw you bicycle on the MRT, if you’re looking for a shortcut home.

Danshui is the final destination.  We got there early in the afternoon and spent an hour snacking along the waterfront at some of the night market shops.  I sampled a curry chicken wrap Indian-style and my wife picked out a sausage skin stuffed with rice.  You can buy a boat tour and cross to the other side of the river, if you’re looking for more places to explore from here.  But we had had enough and decided to save that adventure for another day.

The entire river route from Keelung to Danshui can be ridden in a day, but if you’ve little experience with long distance cycling, be aware that it will cost you around 60 km.  If you’re really an avid rider, getting there and back again in a single day might get your heart pumping.  For alternatives, look into riding the Xidian River Trail and the Danshui River Trail. 

If you’re from out of town and have little time to play, take the MRT to Danshui and rent a bicycle there.  Ride south to Zhuwei and take the alternate route north again, for a casual loop ride.  Or, if you’re feeling strong, push on to the Guangdu Warf before returning home again.  Whatever your flavor, search the Internet for more information before going.  Be sure to get out and enjoy the many routes to bicycle along the rivers in northern Taiwan today!