Bamboo Lake

As the weeks pass and I learn new words in Chinese, I have begun to notice that the MRT stops on the subway are often named after physical landmarks in the countryside.  The stop by my house is named after bamboo.  The next stop on the MRT, going north, is named after red trees.  When I told my Chinese teacher about this discovery, he explained that there isn’t any bamboo there.  There aren’t any red trees either.  Then he told me a funny story.

One time, he was going to the national park located behind my house, called Yang Ming Shan, to find Bamboo Lake.  He looked and looked, but couldn’t see it anywhere.  Finally, he asked someone and they said, you are in it.  All around him were lots and lots of bamboo trees.  There was so much bamboo growing there that they had named the place Bamboo Lake.

The next day, when I was talking to my wife, I told her we had a lake in our house, called Shoes Lake, because she had so many shoes.  Quite bright, she quickly turned around and in Chinese told me that I have Stupid Lake.  So funny, she is.

As I learned to read and write Chinese, it takes me back to when I was little.  I learned a lot of English in the same way, reading books and then trying to write my own stories.  So here is the story of Bamboo Lake told in Chinese.  I’ve had some of my students read it and correct some errors for me.  However, mostly they struggle with the particular expressions I choose to use.  My writing ability is limited to the particular phrases I’ve learned in Chinese and this must sound a little strange to them, just like when I try to correct their stories written inEnglish.

我這個星期在中文課告訴我的老師：

「我的新房子旁邊的捷運很有意思。」

他說「為什麼？」

我說「有一站叫竹圍，

也有一站叫紅樹林。」

他告訴我這個故事。

有一天， 他到陽明山去了。

他對自己說「我想要看竹子湖。」

然後他試試看竹子湖，

可是他不能看。

忽然他看見兩個人，

所以他說「我沒有看看竹子湖。」

「在哪裡？」  他問。

「在這裡啊！」  另一個人說。

在這裡有很多竹子。

我的老師說「  沒有水嗎？ 」

「沒有啊！」 他們一起說。

「嗯…」 我的老師一邊說一邊看看竹子湖。

My First Chinese Story

After taking Chinese lessons for 10 months here in Taiwan, I was finally able to sit down and write a short story about my day in Chinese.  To the average Chinese reader, the story is not much, but to anyone who knows what I went through to get here, it’s a great experience to read.  So enjoy…

我有很多故事.

有一天

我從中山分校

到淡水分校去.

我搭錯了公車

所以我下了公車

然後我又搭錯了公車.

我又下了公車

然後我想走路去.

我給

計程車司機一張淡水分校的名片

然後我問他可以告訴我怎麼去這個地方嗎？

不久有一個人騎機車帶我去.

這個人是台灣人.

他很友善.

這是我的故事.

Legends of the East and West

Green Guard

Some say she drowned in a river. Other say she walked off into the misty mountains at the young age of 28 and disappeared forever. Whatever the case, her father’s body had been lost at sea, never to be seen again. For Lin Muo-Niang (林默娘), life was full of tragedy.

Born in 960 AD, on a small island southeast of China, she was the seventh child in an already crowded family. Her mother, feeling the household needed more room, wanted to abandon her at birth. But her father convinced the family to give the little infant a chance. In an ironic twist, she spent her life dedicated to every instruction her mother ever gave her, preferring never to marry.

After her death, the stories around these events began to expand, creating a complex mythological web out of her life. One legend says an immortal being climbed out of a well and gave her a magical amulet at the age of 16. In another legend, she fought and subdued a pair of frightening creatures who were roaming the countryside and stirring up trouble in southeastern China. This is the story of Matsu (媽祖), Goddess of the sea.

According to folklore, one of the creatures, Shun Feng-Er (順風耳), had unusual hearing. It was said he could hear every sound carried on the wind. The other, Chien Li-Yen (千里眼), could see for a thousand miles. The two monsters resisted the girl, but after being defeated by her became her guardians. They flank her statue even today, ever vigilant of approaching danger. Shun Feng-Er (順風耳), called Favoring-wind Ears, can be identified by his red skin. And Chien Li-Yen (千里眼), also knows as Thousand-league Eyes, has green skin. They both have fangs and stand in menacing poses, muscles taught and weapons ready to strike down anyone who might attempt to harm the girl. The history of these two barbarians can be traced far back into ancient Chinese mythology.

Another enticing myth is the story of the four Dragon Kings of the Sea. They include the East Dragon King, Ao Guang (敖廣), the West Dragon King, Ao Run (敖閏), the South Dragon King, Ao Qin (敖欽), and the North Dragon King, Ao Shun (敖順). The East Dragon King is usually depicted with the head of a dragon and the body of a human; in fact, all of the dragon kings have the ability to shape shift into human form. The East Dragon King watches over the largest region of the four Dragon Kings and is an important character in the book, Journey to the West, which is one of the four great classics of Chinese literature. These four Dragon Kings, together with Matsu (媽祖), Goddess of the Sea, and her two monster guards, rule the wind and the waves of the mythological world.

Much like Greek mythology, where real people began to take on superhuman abilities, many characters in Chinese mythology also most likely began as everyday people doing courageous things in the face of tragedy. The story of Lin Muo-Niang (林默娘) can be traced back through history, revealing how events in her life were embellished each time they were written down, according to Taiwanese researcher Li Hsien-chang. Yet this doesn’t stop people from believing that Matsu (媽祖) can protect them from the dangers of the untamed ocean. Today, there are nearly 400 temples in Taiwan alone dedicated to the worship of the Goddess of the Sea. Temples dedicated to Matsu (媽祖) can be found throughout southeastern Asia and as far away as Chinatown in San Francisco, California. Recently, residents of southern Taiwan took part in a 3 day vegetarian-style fast to celebrate the opening of yet another Matsu temple. What can be taken home from a visit to one of these temples, if you don’t believe in the divine nature of the life of Lin Muo-Niang (林默娘)? The same lesson that can be learned from reading any classic Greek text: never fear to go above and beyond when the world around you needs it.

The Chinese pantheon isn’t as clearly defined as the Greek pantheon. The equivalent of Zeus is mostly likely the Jade Emperor, the ruler of all mythological creatures in the East. Yet, just as Zeus is not the most popular character in Greek mythology, so to the Jade Emperor doesn’t quite catch the imagination like Monkey. Monkey would be more equal to Hercules, when it comes to someone whose antics appeals to the masses. The Greek heroes while considered godlike also are anthropomorphic in nature, exhibiting human-like characteristics as they reside in heaven, sometimes making mistakes in their endeavors to better or destroy the world. So to is it with Chinese folklore. What makes Monkey so attractive is his sense of humor. Monkey is a bit of a trickster, playing jokes on people as they go about their daily lives. At one point he even plays tricks on the Jade Emperor, after which the Jade Emperor gives him a task and a promotion to keep him busy. Even this can’t stop Monkey from horse-playing, so Buddha himself must be enlisted to bring Monkey under control.

One creature stands out as unique in the world of mythology; that is, the dragon. The dragon is the only creature that appears in both eastern and western storytelling. Yet the dragon represents something entirely different in each hemisphere. In the west, the dragon is something to be feared, traditionally capturing a young princess, which our brave knight must go and fight, a tale filled with both romance and danger. In more modern children’s stories, the dragon is peaceful and fun loving, such as in the song, Puff the Magic Dragon, wherein the symbolism can’t be missed. In the east, however, the four Dragon Kings are the rulers of the four regions of the sea and must be respected. At one time, Monkey decides he needs a weapon, because tricks alone are not enough to defeat the monsters of this world, so he sneaks into the treasury of the East Dragon King, Ao Guang (敖廣), to steal a magic wishing staff which can expand to fill the universe or shrink to the size of a needle. The idea of dragons hoarding and protecting great treasures is a common element in both eastern and western literature, as we see in J.R.R. Tolkien’s, The Hobbit.

The history of the dragon in eastern mythology dates back thousands of years, long before dragons appeared in western literature. Recently, a 3,700-year-old totem made out of turquoise and looking like a python with a dragon-shaped head was discovered in central China. The artist who constructed this antique relic was clearly influenced by Chinese civilization. The oldest dragon totem in the world, however, is a 7,000-year-old jade sculpture in the shape of a dragon with a pig head. This totem was found in Inner Mongolia and is not Chinese in origin.

Like the modern day comic book story of the X-Men, the characters in both eastern and western mythology usually have some outstanding trait, some single ability that makes them different from everybody else. And by joining together under various coalitions at different times in their lives, they find strength in numbers and reach incredible heights. Lei Zheng-zi had wings and could fly, but only after eating apricots. Nezha could suddenly grow three heads and six arms. Monkey and the Dragon Kings eventually became friends and ruled together. Today, Nezha is recognized as the god of winning lottery numbers, because like Monkey, he enjoys playing tricks on people.

Next time you visit a temple in Taiwan, look closely at the carvings and artwork and see how many of the characters you can identify there. But be sure to remain respectful of the people worshiping there while you look around. Recently I came across a banister commemorating the opening of the new Matsu (媽祖) temple. In the center you can see the Jade Emperor. A collection of eight characters flanks him, four on each side. These are the eight Immortals of Chinese mythology. Each rides a different animal, one on a horse, one on a tiger, and so on. In this banner, there are only two dragons.
If you look closely at the dragon, you’ll find it is actually made up of other animals. It has the horns of a deer, the head of a camel, the neck of a snake, the body of a crocodile, the scales of a fish, the claws of a bird, and the ears of an ox. The Chinese dragon is a symbol of the Chinese people; it is a chimera, or composite animal, each part representing the different animal totems of the northern Chinese tribes. According to legend, the Celestial Dragon had nine sons, and one of these sons became the emperor of China.

These days, as my wife and I travel around Taiwan, I look more closely at the temples we pass. I’m often eager to pull out my camera and learn more about this culture that I’m now a part of. During your time in Taiwan, don’t hesitate to take in the legends growing up all around us!

River Trails in Northern Taiwan

River Trails

She sprinted past the tombs on her bicycle, fearful that some ghostly apparition might spring up and sweep us away to another world.  I raced around the bend in the river, just ahead of her, eager to put some distance behind us.  The tombs strung across the hillside looked down on us in vacant disregard.  Suddenly the scenery changed and we dropped down below a series of crisscrossing highways.

Diane and I were riding the Keelung River Trail in search of a route to Danshui, a thriving city on the northwestern coast of Taiwan.  Until recently sections of the trail remained unfinished.  Mr. Ma, now president of Tawain, pushed to have the circuit completed while in office as major of Taipei City.  The river trails provide quick access to many points in Taipei County and are a safe alternative to riding on the road, away from cars and traffic headaches.

Mr. Ma’s vision now stands complete.  The Keelung River Trail and the Danshui River Trail run uninterrupted, as if cutting Yangmingshan National Park off from the rest of the island.  Anyone eager to cross the northern tip of Taiwan on a bicycle will find a world of scenic opportunities here, all within a day’s ride away.

The route begins in the port city of Keelung.  Although the eastern side of Taiwan is mountainous, here the river stays flat and is easy to follow.  Once entering Xi Zhi, however, deciding which side of the river to stay on becomes a bit of a logistical nightmare.  After you’re ridden through this section a few times, you’ll know what I mean.  But, until then, just follow someone else and ask for directions whenever needed.

Once you’ve left Taipei County and entered the Taipei City limits, the river becomes less tedious to navigate.  You’ll see that sections of the trail are still under construction, mostly under bridges.  However, alternative routes and trailside maps are easy to find, leaving little chance of getting lost.  Also within the city limits, you’ll find plenty of places to stop and grab a bite to eat or stock up on bicycle accessories, if needed.  

The view from the top of the Dazhi Bridge is remarkable.  To the south of the river is Dajia Riverside Park.  Farther away, across Taipei, is the towering Taipei 101 building.  Dazhi Bridge is a good place to get on and off the trail, if you’ve had enough riding for the day and would like to return again sometime later.  If you don’t have a car, take the road to Yuanshan and throw your bicycle on the MRT.

The distinguished Dazhi Bridge marks the joining of the Danshui and Keelung River Trails.  Still, you’ll still be riding along side the Keelung River for a while longer.  West of the Dazhi Bridge, the trail grows narrower.  Here, also, the crowds get thicker.  Solitary vendors appear at stray intersections, offering bottles of water or small treats to eat.  It wasn’t until we came to the Guangdu Warf, by the Acuatic Birds Marshland, that we found a decent cup of coffee.  Next door to the coffee shop is a donut store and next to that is a bicycle shop.  Guangdu Temple is also an outstanding place to look into the past and admire tradition as it is still practiced today in Taiwan. 

The ride north of Guangdu Warf reveals a glimpse of the vast Danshui River, working its way northward toward the coastline.  Exits at Zhuwei allow you to access to a McDonalds or a KFC, if you’re really missing the calories.  Here you’ll encounter the Hongshulin Mangroves Marshland and birds will swoop down over your head in a race to the finish line.  Hongshulin is also a great place to throw you bicycle on the MRT, if you’re looking for a shortcut home.

Danshui is the final destination.  We got there early in the afternoon and spent an hour snacking along the waterfront at some of the night market shops.  I sampled a curry chicken wrap Indian-style and my wife picked out a sausage skin stuffed with rice.  You can buy a boat tour and cross to the other side of the river, if you’re looking for more places to explore from here.  But we had had enough and decided to save that adventure for another day.

The entire river route from Keelung to Danshui can be ridden in a day, but if you’ve little experience with long distance cycling, be aware that it will cost you around 60 km.  If you’re really an avid rider, getting there and back again in a single day might get your heart pumping.  For alternatives, look into riding the Xidian River Trail and the Danshui River Trail. 

If you’re from out of town and have little time to play, take the MRT to Danshui and rent a bicycle there.  Ride south to Zhuwei and take the alternate route north again, for a casual loop ride.  Or, if you’re feeling strong, push on to the Guangdu Warf before returning home again.  Whatever your flavor, search the Internet for more information before going.  Be sure to get out and enjoy the many routes to bicycle along the rivers in northern Taiwan today!